My ford LT 10

This is how is how it looks now



Plan is to make it go as fast as I can and still be able to mow in 1st

first things first, crack open the tranny to see if the thing is in ok condition,



everything appears to be intact, still gotta check the shift keys add some grease and bit of gear oil, seal it up and call that good for the tranny. Its a peerless 900 031. its going to get a ratio of 6in on the motor and a 4in on the trans, like i said i still wanna mow with it, so tell me what ya'll think and Thanks for reading

*squints* is the bull gear off to the right of the spider gear pin? im not shure I guess that's how it is. huh, outside looks nasty lol, pull the gears and clean it up

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

*squints* is the bull gear off to the right of the spider gear pin? im not shure I guess that's how it is. huh, outside looks nasty lol, pull the gears and clean it up

 its VERY nasty, theres no sealer on it, wonder y? lol

my foote hat i used to have (broke it) was gease filled had no sealent and it had never been opened

ill let the pics speak for themselves

tight fit ? lol

 

ok, ive been making some plans and looking for parts i need to buy.

http://www.bmikarts.com/Axle-Shaft--1-x-39-38_p_518.html

^ axle i think im going to get

http://www.bmikarts.com/White-4-x-4-Wheel-Hub-1-Bore_p_1662.html

^ hubs i think i'm gonna get

http://www.bmikarts.com/Flanged-High-Speed-Wheel-Bearing-34-x-1-38_p_2369.html

bearings for the front, i belive they will fit if i pop out the old front bushings, the outside diameter is like 1.5 ins and the bearings are 1 3/8, so the bearings should fit.

before i buy all this stuff im going to build a front axle that can handle the speeds and abuse

im up to 90 bucks in this thing with just those parts above.

I choose these, http://www.bmikarts.com/Galvanize-4-x-4-Wheel-Hub-1-Bore_p_1661.html

With those you can choose to mount the hub to make it wider. Those whites You cn't. And cheaper too.

Also compare prizes with both BMI and MFG Supply, Ask them for a good price if you get all at once.

tight fit indeed, lol

That looks like a good strong chassis

How about combining the two threads, keep everything in one place. Lot of overlap.

No need to overspeed the transmission, use the kart axle and sprockets to gear it up to the speed you want. 6in front and rear would be fine for the transmission.

i dont think some people under stand, the ford im going to go full racer, wide the wheel base(some) im going to get good brakes im going to make sure the steering is good and tight im going for 65 building it for 70 ill probably never go over 55,well i will once or twice. but, point being im going to build it right even if it takes me a whole year to get the cash to get good parts.

and things have changed, these are the parts im now going to use

http://www.bmikarts.com/1-14-Tubular-Chromoly-Axle_p_510.html

axle^

http://www.bmikarts.com/4-x-4-Billet-Aluminum-Wheel-Hub-1-14-Bore_p_1647.html

hubs^

What about one of these??? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1BZ0J63595&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Ignition+%26+Electrical-_-9SIA1BZ0J63595

Stretch44875 wrote:

How about combining the two threads, keep everything in one place.  Lot of overlap.

No need to overspeed the transmission, use the kart axle and sprockets to gear it up to the speed you want.  6in front and rear would be fine for the transmission.

Stretch, MD explained to me the reason the threads are not combined is due to some explanation expected on how you do your axles so that he may incorporate it into his build and yet leave it as a how-to for everyone else wanting to do the same.

MD - I think its a killer build bud....

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

What about one of these??? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1BZ0J63595&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Ignition+%26+Electrical-_-9SIA1BZ0J63595

LOL, no....

the parts list is getting longer




the enine renfocements, just needs to be welded

hey, need help, what should i set the castor at to handle 65? and im only going 60 but would like to be safe at 60 and build it for 65. should i do 10 like stretch did?

xxXMowerdudeXxx wrote:

hey, need help, what should i set the castor at to handle 65? and im only going 60 but would like to be safe at 60 and build it for 65. should i do 10 like stretch did?

To much is worse than none, so maybe a 5-8.

xxXMowerdudeXxx wrote:

the parts list is getting longer Smile

6" Wheels?

6in rims, 13in tires

xxXMowerdudeXxx wrote:

6in rims, 13in tires

Kool

Stretch44875 wrote:

No need to overspeed the transmission, use the kart axle and sprockets to gear it up to the speed you want.  6in front and rear would be fine for the transmission.

I completely agree. Let's not stress that sucker out any more than we have to. By the same token, you've got to keep the sprocket sizes reasonable. I suspect that the end result would require a pulley swap (not as extreme though) AND careful sprocket selection.

Now- you're using a transaxle (as opposed to a transmission). How do you plan to locate and drive that rear axle? If the transaxle were to remain more or less in it's stock location, you'd have to locate the axle several inches away in order to leave room for the final drive sprockets. Since a shorter wheelbase isn't a good idea, I guess you're going to strecth it, or did I miss something?

Also- with an open differential in the transaxle, you will be forced to do one of two things- either lock it and take the output off one side to the the axle, OR you'll have to run redundant sprockets and chains off BOTH sides of the transaxle to the axle. Leave one side open, and you won't move.

IMO- you're better off just shopping for a transmission, but I understand that you want to use what you already have.

Okay, now I'm confused. I thought you were using a 700 peerless at some point, but don't see that in the thread. Using the transaxle as a transmission will be tricky, as Doc pointed out. I don't know if it will handle the stress if you drive it with one axle, and lock it.

And then I see you want to mow with it? And do 65, and do haspin, and spend who knows how much? I put countless hours of experience, planing, building, and lots of money, just to have a reliable race/offroad mower, that does 45.

This is beginning to sound like a what if thread. What exactly do you want it to do, and what parts do you have?

Stretch44875 wrote:

Okay, now I'm confused.  I thought you were using a 700 peerless at some point, but don't see that in the thread.  Using the transaxle as a transmission will be tricky, as Doc pointed out.  I don't know if it will handle the stress if you drive it with one axle, and lock it.

And then I see you want to mow with it?  And do 65,  and do haspin, and spend who knows how much?  I put countless hours of experience, planing, building, and lots of money, just to have a reliable race/offroad mower, that does 45.  

This is beginning to sound like a what if thread.  What exactly do you want it to do, and what parts do you have?

i dont know where the thing about the tranny came from.

ok, heres the plan, new and updated. ford frame, reinforced, with a 18hp v twin im not sure im getting it yet but thats the plan other wise im using my 16hp opposy, 7in pully on the engine, going to a 3.5in on the rear, rear end will be a 3/5 speed peerless 700, using #40 chain, 12 tooth sprocket onv tranny to a 45ish for a 3 speed, 16 to 60ish for 5 speed, going to a 1 1/4in chromly axle with high speed bearings off bmi carts, see pic, with 4x4 hubs to 4x4 tires with 18in turfs, for the front will be your front end edited a bit, with direct steer, 3/4in axles and 3 bolt high speed hubs with rims and 13in tire, and breaks are going to be mechanical with a 8in disc. thats all i got so far, lots to do before i need to worry more

estimated speed now?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

estimated speed now?

oh yeah, im going for 60