new here, and would like some help...

so shift on the go means it shifts like a car right?
and also i have to make my own gear stick?
if so thats fine, and you said the gears are all in a line, so is the shifter like this?

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or like this?

because i thought i remember reading somewhere that if you have the type of tranny where the belt tensioner is the "clutch", and you try to shift WHILE you are moving, you could possibly damage the trans or  damage your gears, is that true?
and you guys were saying that if i got a six speed or 5 speed that the 3rd gear in that would be equivalent to my single FNR speed, is it the same with the 4 speed.
once again sorry for the questions

the second one is shift on the go, and no you won't damage a 5 or 6 speed by shifting as you drive, they use a sliding set of keys that simple slip into a keyway in the selected gear, that gear is in constant contact with other gears and turns at the same rate of speed, modern peerless and most other geared transaxles are designed to be shifted this way

The 4 speed you are mentioning is just the 5 or 6 speed transaxle with the gears tooken out and spacers used to take up the space of the missing gears. I would think that 1st gear and 4th gear in the 4 speed would be the same gears as the 1st gear and 5th or 6th gear. Just missing the in-between gears. There should be specs. on the gear ratios from the seller, if not then ask before you buy.

i know rockyda said 1st, 2nd and 3rd in his mst 203 had the same gearing as a 206 in 1st, 3rd and 6th, i would assume the 204 would be set up the same way and there are no stupid questions, it's better to ask someone experienced than bumble your way through, screw up and have to redo something expensive

The MST 20x series transaxles have like 7 billion gear ratios, but nothing big in the ratio difference. Theyre one of the best 3/4 axles out there.

The single speed FNR has no gears and gets its "gearing" by a variable ratio clutch.

Pressing the clutch will help save the shift keys. It takes away the direct load from the engine.

Thanks guys, I understand that pressing in the clutch would help a lot, but remember my PTO is the clutch and it's on the dash, so it would take me awhile to shift, so do you guys think I should take the extra time to shift using the clutch, or just shift without clutch

I would shift with the clutch. Shifting under power will tear up the shift keys. Since you’ll get much better ratios, I would go back to using the old pulley and just removing the varidrive. This will let you use the regular clutch and will remove lots of clutter. If you need even more speed you can make or buy a pulley that just goes to the engine shaft and replaces the stacked pulley

So I didn't really read through, but to answer some questions, I'm running 20MPH with stock steering on my Murray and have no problems with it. If you want to replace it I'd recommend front suspension and a rack & pinion.

Brakes, DO NOT USE STOCK BRAKE UNLESS YOU KNOW FOR A FACT THEY WORK FLAWLESSLY!!! Check out the fail thread and you'll see an orange Murray underwater. That's what the stock brakes did for me.

Shift on the go means nothing. It means the shifter is connected to the clutch. But shift on the go or not, I do it anyway. You can either (1 press the clutch and shift, or (2, if you have a gas pedal, rev match it and shift. Both options should work.

The 4spd trans is your decision, but you can maybe get a used 5 or 6 speed for cheap at a mower junkyard. I got an 820 for $25, traded a used hydro for a 6 speed MST, and got another MST for $20. We know the guy pretty good though, so you could probably get one for about $40. It will be a used one, but it ain't $170.

so guys, i know the basics of driving a stick, i cant drive a car stick ( yet, and never tried it )
but i can almost guaruntee i can drive a stick on a mower, since the mechanics on the mower are much smaller then the car, so there for you can pop the clutch like on a dirtbike without really breaking anyhting,and you dont have to come off the clutch so easy on a mower, unlike with a car you do.
but i have HEARD of revmatching, but dont really know what it is. so could some one please tell me?

and once again just as a reminder i know the BASICS of driving stick, so dont slaughter me with " oH mY goD hE DoSEnT kNOw wHaT rEV mATchInG iS."

So that’s when the input speed matches the output speed for the selected ratio. So when you upshift, you go faster but your rpms drop. So what you basically do is let off the gas and ease it into the next gear. To downshift, you give it some gas and ease it into the lower gear. I believe that’s how it works, that’s how it works in a car anyway

Just jam it. But I would do away with the electric PTO and go to a normal dual pulley clutch. If you have to clutch in an emergency you wont be able to do it as easy.

What the heck? Why do people keep saying I have a electric pto, lol,
I've said about 2 times I have a handle on the dash that you manually push in and out, and besides that what does jam it mean?

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE dont read this thinking I had a attitude, cause the way I said things up above it might sound like I had an attitude, but I promise you I did not, if anything i wrote this text in a happy way, so read it in a happy voice

Dude what in the living hell?
Why does it keep posting my posts more than once?

Using the back button?  Who know, it does it from time to time.

loggers gogert wrote:

What the heck? Why do people keep saying I have a electric pto, lol,
I've said about 2 times I have a handle on the dash that you manually push in and out, and besides that what does jam it mean?

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE dont read this thinking I had a attitude, cause the way I said things up above it might sound like I had an attitude, but I promise you I did not, if anything i wrote this text in a happy way, so read it in a happy voice

Jam it into gear. "floating" into gear with a mower transaxle is just over complicating things.

Electric was an assumption on my part. Either way, having the clutch on a pedal instead of on the dash will let you have more control by keeping your hands on the wheel.

I can help with the revmatching think, LOL. The idea here has a couple different names pretty much, depends who is using it and on what kind of machine. The process is the same in any situation and in any kind of vehicle or machine. For example; car, semi, tractor, or stationary power equipment. This also applies to different manual gear boxes or manual transmissions also.

Generally speaking, you need a clutch, a way to control throttle, and a trans (ofcourse).
The only time you use the clutch is to start moving. So get going in first gear. Reach the desired speed to shift and let off the throttle. When you let off the throttle, at the same time pull shifter out of gear, at this point the engine is revving down. Next, what ever speed the engine is revving down from and going to idle, the halfway point is when you start pushing into the next higher gear, should be a gentle push and you will feel the gears touching, if the gears grind then you are pushing too hard and you need to stop and start over. Doing this is the revmathing part. While the engine is revving down and you are touching the gears inside the trans by pushing the shifter gently into the next higher gear, when the gear teeth match speeds on the down rev the teeth will engage on their own which you will feel by holding the shifter and you finish pushing into the gear. then hit the throttle and repeat for the next gear.

While trying this you will notice certain things. Like, when you are speeding up or down in any gear you will not be able to pull the shifter out of gear. This is because the gears are locked together by friction when you are speeding up or speeding down. It would be possible but would take a lot of force. But at the instant you let off throttle while in gear and before the engine starts deceleration there is no pressure on the gears and at this very point makes it possible to pull the shifter out of gear easy. Timing is key!

Also when you are doing the actual revmatching part, while you are pushing into the next gear, when the 2 gears are matching speeds, at this very point it will feel like the shifter will suck into the next gear which is when you know to push it into gear. Timing is key here too!

Also, when I said revving up and revving down, it takes time for the engine to do this and gives you a short window of opportunity to do certain things or steps. So the rpm at doing this helps and upshifting gears at a high rpm gives you a bigger chance or a longer time at doing the steps to shift.

Ofcourse, the better the gearbox or transmission is, the easier it will be to do this. These steps given are for a bear knuckles trans or gear box with straight cut gears with no bevels in the gears.

Have fun!

thank you, i THINK i understand what you are saying, but cant be sure for now, well find out once i get it there are 2 ways this will end up though

1st way, i am perfectly fine at driving it

2nd way, i need a new tranny after: "sloooowly let off clutch" then CLUNK CLA-CLUNK CLUNK ( because im not givin it enough gas.
"alright, im going to shiiift into gear", C-C-CRUUUNCH CCCHHHGGGH

well hopefully that dosent happen but i guess well find out soon LOL

oh, and you guys said i should make MY OWN foot clutch, exactly HOW would i do that?

Can you post some pics of the mower in question?

yea.......i would........buuuuuuuuuut.................i dont have........a phone

dont roast me plz

i can give you my model numbers, and then you can see what tractor i have maybe?

model number: ( under seat )
13CO6166190
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might be an O, or an zero couldnt tell
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family: ( on engine )
YBSXS.7452VR and about an inch next to that it said: 275103
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serial number: ( under seat )
1E202H20297
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That's fine, no big deal.
Need a bar going from side rail of to the other side rail of the frame with a lever on one side to push with your foot. Then a rod attached to this bar by an arm. so the end result would be when you push with your foot, you turn the bar that moves and arm on the bar, this arm can push or pull rod. Then this rod, the other end attaches to another arm with a pulley on it. This second arm with the pulley is pulled by a spring to pull the belt tight. Now when you push the bar with your foot, the linkage pulls this pulley away from the belt. A basic clutch.

now i understand how to do it now, but you would think you would need a REALLY REALLY heavy compression/powerful spring to pull the belt together, is that true

Doesn't need too much spring pressure. Maybe about 20 lbs. of pulling force on the pulley pushing or pulling on the belt to tighten it. Plus depends on what kind of springs you have handy. To much spring pull or push would just create friction but you would know this going for a test drive. Spring pressure can be adjusted by leverage on the arm that holds the pulley by having it attach before the pulley or after the pulley, in relation to the pivot point or where the arm is bolted to the frame.