Kohler ignition module - bad or something else?

I have a Kohler CV490 - 17 HP? I bought it used for $25, so, I have nothing to complain about if I put a moderate amount of money into it. The seller had a hard time shutting it off because it was mickey moused to get it to start. I do not know how he did it, I was not paying close attention.

When I installed it on my Murray, I could not start it. I determined my Murray was putting out (+) on the kill wire to the coil (aka ign module) when on start or run, then (-) when turned off.

So, I installed a kill switch separate from the stock wire to the kill wire for the coil. Figuring somehow the (+) might have killed a "module".

I bought a coil off Amazon, going by the IPL #, which started it no problem. The problem is the kill wire does not work. I did a circuit test right at the coil connector, and the coil is getting (-) when the switch is flipped.

I think the Kohler might have had a anti-fire valve at one time, but, should not the (-) on the ignition module (aka coil) simply kill the engine no matter what? I know on my B&S and Predator engines it does.


This is my first Kohler with an electric start, so, maybe I missing something.

Or else the coil is defective.

Any ideas why direct negative would not kill the running engine?

I had to throttle it all the way down and kill the gas to shut it off. The governor is reving it up and down, more then it should, but, I can't address that until I can shut off the engine.

I do have good spare B&S coil push mower coils to try and to me they look almost the same. So, I could try on of those?

I just do not want to return a coil if the problem is on my end.

Do you happen have the little black box on the side known as the Spark Advance Module (SAM)? If so how many wires and what colors? They can be a pain but didn't come on all of the CV Series. The coils for the one's with SAM don't have a standard ground to kill on the coil and come with more than one tab on it, it relies on removing power from the module itself to kill spark.

I could be way off base here but am trying to help

No, that sounds about right going by the repair manual. Though I do not have the Spark Advance Module. I checked the wiring schematic to make sure. It only has one tab on the coil and is gravity fed on the fuel, though it appears it can take a fuel pump.

Maybe I ordered the wrong number and one for the SAM? That never occurred to me. Time to double check, if I ordered the correct number, I will just return this one. Glad I did not use the spark plug and fuel filter that came with it.

Thanks.

It could just be defective, a single post coil is definitely ground to kill.

Come to think of it I don't remember actually trying to ground the coil with the SAM... I should though!

I ordered an OEM Kohler coil from ereplacements, so, we will see what happens with that one. Meanwhile I think if I can find a B&S coil that matches the flywheel profile, I will try that for giggles. Though Kohler and B&S "might" make their own flywheel discs, I doubt they make their own coils.

> OEM Kohler coil from ereplacement

This worked and fit fine and I was able to set the gap to spec. B&S and Kohler can not be swapped, the holes are too far off and require drilling there a rivet holding the layers together.

It still surges and diesels and will not shut off. I noticed the LED switch I installed as a shut off switch, kept blinking even though the only thing going to it are ground wires. Some sort of wiring problem. I am just going to remove everything and install a new switch and harness and see if that clears it up. I already bought 30 amp zener diodes for the (+) from the voltage regulator.