Lifted 4x4

got the idea to make a lifted mower, with 4x4, but not as ive seen other people make it. i think it will be on at least 31s and only go about 5-10mph. i was going to use a hydro i had and make it chain drive, and still might... just not on this one. im using the F N R transaxles used on MTDs vari drive system. it will be geard really low and have a clutch. but no vari drive, might put a torque converter on it tho.... it will be lifted pretty damn high and be mostly for kicks, but i want it to function as good as it looks, so today i did some major tranny cleaning, it needed it. i also need to get another transaxle off of a MTD, mower.

nasty ass grease

rusty axles, but they dont ride on the cases, this has a bushing setup kinda like an 820 but instead of bearings it has bushings


input shaft the pulley didnt come off easy so, i took the whole shaft out to get the pulley off without damaging the case/c-clip

input gear

the different kind of spider gear assembly. its built better then the other kind, just a pain in the ass should i lock it?

the actual tranny gears and shaft lol

cases

clean cases and some internals

to get into the spider gears on this thing to lock it or to clean it up you have to seperate the bull gear from the little housing. they bolts these bolts through to hold it and then took a hammer and mushroomed the ends over so it wouldnt back out into the case and blow it up... im going to put them back with tons of locktite..



cleaned the corrosion in the axle housing

these axles dont have c-clips holding the spider gears on, they have nuts with locktite.. pretty nice, just be sure to clamp it just snug, and only on the flat part of the axles that acts as the key way

everything laid out for the night


so should i lock this one, it will be the rear axle. im not locking the front becuase it would steer like *****, need some opinion to even lock the rear one... and unless i can get oil seals for the axles, input, brake, and shifter i will have to use grease again... witch ill be puttin grease fittings on the axle tubes, maybe one near the bull gear, witch could act as a water drain if i put it near the bottom, just unscrew it every now and then and see waht drips out.

I'm liking this, first time seeing a FNR torn apart looks more rugged than what I'm told.

Ariens YT11 wrote:

I'm liking this, first time seeing a FNR torn apart looks more rugged than what I'm told.

Yea the bushings on the axles, and the nuts holding the spider gears on surprised me

I bet

Yup... Lock that sucka! Failing all other options, a Fozzy-style arrangement should do.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Yup... Lock that sucka! Failing all other options, a Fozzy-style arrangement should do.

So lock the rear, and the front leave open right

i would do that.

Ariens YT11 wrote:

i would do that.

Once I get weldin wire lol

How I will make the front end knuckles, and mounting

primed the tranny and got thew frame and tires mocked up lol. i think i will make it about 4 inches lower then what is in the pic

tranny


this is for aluminum

got some new bolts

mockup

GenevaCustoms wrote:

How I will make the front end knuckles, and mounting

Nice scetch, just remember the exact middle of the universal joint has to be right over the c hub's king pin

Looks really good!

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

GenevaCustoms wrote:

How I will make the front end knuckles, and mounting

Nice scetch, just remember the exact middle of the universal joint has to be right over the c hub's king pin

That probly saved me a bunch of headache lol thanks!

Them tranny cases look great aswell.

TroyBilt Pony wrote:

Them tranny cases look great aswell.

Thanks, I need another tranny like this lol

Me ans mu buddy came up with the idea of makin this thing have a trabsfercase with driveshafts to run the transmissions off of willpost pics of the drawings later

Got the pic with colors. This is a first drawing lol, suggestions are taken
But basically the engine will run a torque converter to get a better range of torque and speed with the single speed trans. From the torque converter it will run a chain and sprocket to a "input shaft" if you will, with a spider gear on the end. Then two more spider gears like in a normal tranny will be turning by the input shaft. They will be held up by pillow block bearings and be a short shaft. A U-Joint will be on the end were the "driveshaft" connects and then runs through another pillow block bearing diagonally towards the input shaft on the tranny, witch will have another U-Joint.

The drawback I can see here is that if you lose traction with one wheel, your whole setup will stop moving. With a differential (spider gears) between front and back, and another at each axle, one wheel slips and you'd be stuck.

Agreed, and-

You're not likely to get satsfactory operation out of those U-joints.45* is asking more than most U-joints are capable of. Also, those shatfs will be counter-rotating. Watch your orientation, or one end of your machine will desperately be trying to travel in the opposite direction of the other.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Agreed, and-

You're not likely to get satsfactory operation out of those U-joints.45* is asking more than most U-joints are capable of. Also, those shatfs will be counter-rotating. Watch your orientation, or one end of your machine will desperately be trying to travel in the opposite direction of the other.

He could just spin a axle 180 if it was spinning the wrong way, or he could put it in reverse. Assuming its the same ratio.

Ye so get 3 transaxles, eliminate all the clutter above with one transaxle mounted sideways, down to two FNR or similar. and use heavyduty hydraulic hose as the u joints. You can probably find some broken ones somewhere.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Agreed, and-

You're not likely to get satsfactory operation out of those U-joints.45* is asking more than most U-joints are capable of. Also, those shatfs will be counter-rotating. Watch your orientation, or one end of your machine will desperately be trying to travel in the opposite direction of the other.

They need to counter rotate, to keep the trannys the same direction. And this picture is not scale so idk if the angles will be that much.

ive seen those trannys in rear steers with the knuckles aready on them was thinking about doing something similar to what you plan o do here

TheRainbowBoxer wrote:

The drawback I can see here is that if you lose traction with one wheel, your whole setup will stop moving.  With a differential (spider gears) between front and back, and another at each axle, one wheel slips and you'd be stuck.

I would only lose "traction" on that trannsmission. The other one will still be pulling.. not to say that I wont have one wheel on each tranny spinning, but trucks have that also so stuff doesn't break. Just because one front tire doesn't have traction doesn mean the rear tranny will stop pulling

Thunderdivine wrote:

Ye so get 3 transaxles, eliminate all the clutter above with one transaxle mounted sideways, down to two FNR or similar. and use heavyduty hydraulic hose as the u joints. You can probably find some broken ones somewhere.

Thought about it but if it was unlocked it may or may not spin both axles the same way, and if it was locked I'd have to put one of the trannys backwards. And a tranny is longer and woukd put a harder angle on my joints, I'm makeing the spider gear shafts as short as possible but I've also found a right angle gearbox with two outputs... Might use that