New Guy From Central Pa

Good trans you have there. Very durable unless you're me lol, I tore mine right up doing stupid stuff. I'm currently looking for another. For a start I'd do a 6 to 6 inch pulley swap for a bit of speed and belt grip. That takes a 3/4" bore pulley on the trans btw. I cut and reweld my deck drive pulley for the transmission drive pulley, works well. Good luck with this, and have fun!

I'm looking forward to this. I told the wife that if it goes right that I want to get a cheap fixer upper from FB or CL for her to run and find some trail rides to go on together with folks. I was looking at the Doc Locker for the 820 and its quite a bit more involved than with the other transaxles. I used to play with Explorer's, once the family kept growing it was time to ditch the offroad trucks.
Two of my old toys, don't know if any of y'all are into wheeling pickups or SUV's. The red trucks had 4.56 gears front and back and the green one had 5.13 gears front and back with welded spiders.

Nice! What does/did the one flexing in the second last picture have for a front suspension setup?

The front suspension was just Ford's TTB (Twin Traction Beam) setup. It had a 6" skyjacker lift kit on the front and spring over axle in the rear to match the front and to get the rear springs out of the way. And I had no sway bars on it, didn't drive it fast enough to worry about it.

Oh ok, I thought it was a solid axle setup. Pretty decent flex out it that front end it seems!

LOL, all you north easterners... HAHA.
Allis you are going to get a rep on the axle stuff. LOL!

I've been working on it when I have time, this is our busy time of year at work. The pulley didn't come off as planned.... And I double checked and its definitely a 5/8 shaft. I was trying to use a pulley puller on the little bit that's left but there's obviously not enough surface there to latch on. I did wrap a little ratchet strap around the arms of the puller and tightened the SOB so the arms wouldn't move but she isn't really budging, if it moved it was only a 32nd. Another setback....

Might have to get mean and do what I did. Take your cutoff wheel and cut the pulley hub right into the keyway (that's important so you don't cut into the shaft and get a bunch of burrs or weak points). once you have the pulley hub slotted (parallel to the shaft if that makes sense), take a large flathead screwdriver and hammer that SOB in the slot you just cut to essentially increase the inside diameter of the hub. Should slide right off after that.

That's along the lines of what I was thinking Craftsman. I didn't think about going into the keyway side but I figured if I had a slot and wedged something into it that it would have no choice but to separate. Thanks for the advice.

Glen4X4 wrote:

I've been working on it when I have time, this is our busy time of year at work. The pulley didn't come off as planned.... And I double checked and its definitely a 5/8 shaft. I was trying to use a pulley puller on the little bit that's left but there's obviously not enough surface there to latch on. I did wrap a little ratchet strap around the arms of the puller and tightened the SOB so the arms wouldn't move but she isn't really budging, if it moved it was only a 32nd. Another setback....

If you are trying to save it, take a piece of pip and hammer the "hub" back DOWN, put a blast of PB blaster on there. Use the puller to pull it back up that 32nd... keep working it back and forth, ittll com off.

If you have a set of torches, heating and cooling helps. Even on of those little propane jobbies would work. Heat it up, let it cool enough so the pb blaster doesnt just evaporate, let it cool some more... heat it back up...

Gotta be patient, but it will come off sooner or later.

I was nervous of beating it down that it would chip off inside of the case. There's some goofy fella on YouTube that claims that if you heat rusted stuff up really hot and then quench it in cold water that it helps things break free. Would that affect the integrity of the input shaft doing that?

I cut it off. Before work I took the axle outside and took a cut off wheel and just split it. It came off, should've just done that in the first place. I cleaned up the input shaft and I put some heavy grease on it before sliding the pulley on even though I don't plan on taking the pulley off. Planning for the what-ifs.

How full should this transaxle be? I see if it has a fill plug so I figure this axle has gear oil instead of grease on the gears.

Should be a little over half full. Also, a vent is a good idea so you don't blow your seals out

That's a good idea too. I looked over it for a vent but obviously doesn't have one, I'll put one in place over the winter when I take the case apart. Unless I find the right size pipe, I'll thread it into the will hole connected with a rubber hose and run it high.

I measured the drive pulley on the motor last night and looks to be maybe 4.5". Its hard to get a good measurement with the shaft in the way so I rounded it to that because it looked like 4 and quarter on the sides of the shaft.

Today at work I drove by a small engine repair and sales shop. I stopped and asked if they had any junk Murray's and a guy took me out behind the shop to some junkers. The dude said, there's a Murray, I looked and by god, it was the exact style that was on the Stanley. I took it off, put it in the van and then put it in the bed of my truck and put'er on. It's not perfect but I plan on reinforcing the craptastic design that Murray made so that I can make it stronger at the hinge to the metal of the hood with some metal. The white part where the headlights are, I'm painting that black since I'm going to end up putting two small square LED lights in place.

If you were looking at the stock pulley stack, you may have been looking at the wrong pulley. The one that runs the trans is usually only about 2 inches in diameter. The bottom one that runs the deck would easily be 4.5

Unless of course you swapped engine pulleys lol

Nope, I measured the top one this morning.I haven't messed with the engine pulley's. The deck pulley on the motor is 6 I think, I just measured it and it slipped my mind already, it's been a long day.

Glen4X4 wrote:

Nope, I measured the top one this morning.I haven't messed with the engine pulley's. The deck pulley on the motor is 6 I think, I just measured it and it slipped my mind already, it's been a long day.

Wow that's pretty big for a stock drive pulley, but just about the perfect size IMO

Glen4X4 wrote:

I was nervous of beating it down that it would chip off inside of the case. There's some goofy fella on YouTube that claims that if you heat rusted stuff up really hot and then quench it in cold water that it helps things break free. Would that affect the integrity of the input shaft doing that?

I guess it depends how abusive you are to it...

..and heating and cooling helps. Heat expands, cool shrinks.

I went from a 101.5" belt to a 90.5" belt. It's a damn good fit, I went with a 92" and it was too big. It's pretty awesome at how speedy this thing is. I had my son today so I didn't put the belt on until getting close to dark. Took it for a little stroll on the side street but was getting too dark for the unlit street by the fairgrounds. 1st gear is still fairly low which I like, reverse is faster than I like but oh well, just use the clutch more.

It's awesome when a belt fits just right after a mod.  My squatch build needs an in-between size that isn't made.  I go ahead with the larger and try to adjust to it.