Minor rusting in cylinder

Just got a new tractor that had been left sitting outside for a while. The water made its way into the valves and a little bit in the combustion chamber. Because of this there are some rough spots towards the top of the cylinder near the head. So my question is: Do I need to tear it all down and hone it? Or do I just smooth it out with some Emory paper? I'll try to post a picture here soon.

Here are some pictures of it.  You can definitely feel it with your fingers.

That's beyond honing.

Needs bored, oversized piston and rings. I'd run it just like it is, until it blows, then find another engine.

Get it as smooth as possible and run as is till it blows up

Honing? Can't see the piston walls. But clean it with a scrape and sandpaper and do what stretch suggested. You'll be good for some years.

My go kart motor is worse than that.
Been running it for years without problems

At this point, you could probably try to clean it up some with a small plain (2") wire wheel. Go pretty easy on it, you don't want to score the bejeezus outta the cylinder wall. The idea here is to take off the rust that protrudes from the surface, to minimize ring damage and hopefully improve sealing. This will leave pitting in the cylinder wall- but all things being equal, it's much better than chunks sticking out of the wall. You could very well get years of service out of it like this, with minimal compression loss, and/or smoke.

As Doc said, clean it up and run it.

My self being who I am, I would blast a quick hone through it to knock the high spots down, scuff the rings to take the glaze off, run a shortened break in, and it would likely last a decade

Good words, chopper- I'd give it a light honing too, but I didn't mention it because most folks don't have one, and overdoing it will make the situation worse.

Doc Sprocket wrote:

Good words, chopper- I'd give it a light honing too, but I didn't mention it because most folks don't have one, and overdoing it will make the situation worse.

Well said and true

Doc Sprocket wrote:

At this point, you could probably try to clean it up some with a small plain (2") wire wheel. Go pretty easy on it, you don't want to score the bejeezus outta the cylinder wall. The idea here is to take off the rust that protrudes from the surface, to minimize ring damage and hopefully improve sealing. This will leave pitting in the cylinder wall- but all things being equal, it's much better than chunks sticking out of the wall. You could very well get years of service out of it like this, with minimal compression loss, and/or smoke.

Wouldnt a copper/ brass wheel be lighter on the walls? Versus steel.

Doug Fackler wrote:

Doc Sprocket wrote:

At this point, you could probably try to clean it up some with a small plain (2") wire wheel. Go pretty easy on it, you don't want to score the bejeezus outta the cylinder wall. The idea here is to take off the rust that protrudes from the surface, to minimize ring damage and hopefully improve sealing. This will leave pitting in the cylinder wall- but all things being equal, it's much better than chunks sticking out of the wall. You could very well get years of service out of it like this, with minimal compression loss, and/or smoke.

Wouldnt a copper/ brass wheel be lighter on the walls? Versus steel.

 
Anything softer than the cylinder wall would be good.
 
brass, fine stainless, composite.
 
Trick is to be gentle.

I've used a long piece pf 1/4" steel rod, with a slot in the end to old 2 pieces of 80 grit emery cloth back to back, mount it in a die grinder and go.