Rocking the shifter!

Peerless 930 trans.

When I am trying to shift, sometimes I have to rock the tractor forward and backward, to get it to shift.

Most notably into first, or reverse.

Can anyone tell me why that is happening?

For instance, is it a matter of linkage geometry?

While rocking it, works, I don't like having to do that sort of thing. If I can understand WHY I have to rock the tractor, to get it to shift, then I can work on finding a solution to the real problem, and stop the kludgey fix of rocking it.

Thank you, in advance.

personally, i cant POSITIVELY explain it, but i think i know why it does it. many transmissions do it. its because there is tension on one of the gears or keys. i often have to rock my quad to be able to find neutral on it. also when i go to click into reverse, i often have to rock it. my bolens does it too sometimes, to the point where the shifter wont even move. when my tractor wont go into a gear, i keep pressure on the shifter, and ease out the clutch VERY slowly, and it will click in after the tranny turns a bit. my dads craftsman GT is the same way

Yes.

Been thinking about it since I posted. Kind of running through the linkages outside, and the gears inside.

And I have to agree with you.

because of the way these are designed, together with the tolerances and "as cheap as possible" manufacturing, I think it is something that I am just going to have to live with.

I'll keep mulling it over. Maybe eventually I'll come up with something that will fix the problem and not just treat the symptoms.

if you REALLY wanted to fix it (idk if there is bushings between the case and gears) you could look for slop in the gears, and replace any bushings that seem worn, basically take out as much play as possible. just a though

willis923 wrote:

if you REALLY wanted to fix it (idk if there is bushings between the case and gears) you could look for slop in the gears, and replace any bushings that seem worn, basically take out as much play as possible. just a though

Absolutely on my to-do list for someday!

Willis, I didn't know you were so cute!


    

awww, thanks

Most of it comes down to the design itself. Unlike a conventional transmission (think car)- where shifting brings on gear into mesh with the next, these units bring shift keys into the gears. The gears are slotted at 90° for the keys. This is entire quarter-turns where the keys cannot index. Under normal circumstances it's not usually too much of a problem, but it does seem to get aggravated with modifications, especially if your clutch is not releasing perfectly.

I noticed that I was experiencing this a LOT more often after changing pulleys. Now- I have quite a bit of clutch throw- which would SEEM to not be a problem- but I have not yet redone my belt guides after the pulley change. With no belt guides, the belt does what it wants when you disengage the clutch. I have noticed while peering down thru the old shifter slot that the belt is sometimes still moving. Without the guides, the belt goes wide off the "sides" of the pulleys, but is still making contact in the middle. This causes the belt to still run, and appears to be the source of the difficulty.

Having sandbagged on places like Heymow a lot, it seems the guides to a lot more than just keep the belt from falling off. They basically ensure it releases properly and therefore allows the tranny input to come to a stop.

Very well said doc. Fearless front put a belt lock on his clutch that when he depresses the clutch compleatly it sqweezes the belt between two objects to stop the belt so he could shift. Your shift linkeg could be flexing as well.

My 633a on both GTs sometimes need a bit of rocking, or like Willis said about keeping pressure on the shifter and easing out the clutch, to shift.

Ight den let me tell what iv dun to my murray. It has an 820 in er and after about 2 months of runin it it started getting hard to shift. Had to rock it and move the shifter so hard i thought it would brake at any time. So i tore into it tuseday to put what im callin a spider lock in it. (Its pittin 2 more spider gears in the diff to lock it like stretch dun.) anyway once i got in noticed a lil moisture in it and the shifter where the ball rideswas rusting and gettin rough and grease was slung everywhere but where its needed cleaned er out and put loucushear oil in it with a mix of about a cup of grease put er all back together and wow this thing shifts as good as i ever has. Dont know about you but this fixed my rockit problem now she is rollin. I think it wasent gettin lubed enough. Keys and shifter cousing the problem.

CornShuck4CE wrote:

Ight den let me tell what iv dun to my murray. It has an 820 in er and after about 2 months of runin it it started getting hard to shift. Had to rock it and move the shifter so hard i thought it would brake at any time. So i tore into it tuseday to put what im callin a spider lock in it. (Its pittin 2 more spider gears in the diff to lock it like stretch dun.) anyway once i got in noticed a lil moisture in it and the shifter where the ball rideswas rusting and gettin rough and grease was slung everywhere but where its needed cleaned er out and put loucushear oil in it with a mix of about a cup of grease put er all back together and wow this thing shifts as good as i ever has. Dont know about you but this fixed my rockit problem now she is rollin. I think it wasent gettin lubed enough. Keys and shifter cousing the problem.

That is probably due to you belt being a hair to tight, or the pulleys being large and still trying to grab the belt and not fully disengage too. maybe try and get more throw out of your clutch and it should help a bunch

Are you talkin to me red. Na my belt stops when i hit the clutch i fixed it it was in trans. Smooth as silk now.